Cartier’s Jacqueline Karachi talks to Vogue about 100 years of Indian history within its collection ‘Tutti Frutti’

During their debut in the 1920s, these carved gemstone pieces were simply called ‘pierres de couleur’ or coloured stones. Some texts also see them referred to by Jacques Cartier as the “Hindou jewels”. The words ‘Tutti Frutti’, reminiscent of the candied fruit topping, became the chosen moniker for the jewellery only in the 1970s.

“We designers love to play with the ‘Tutti Frutti’,” says Karachi, as we dive deeper into the ornate India-inspired design. “Typically, the motifs on the jewels are inspired by the tree of life. These leaves and flowers give life to the engraved stones. Think of it as the composition of a bouquet of flowers. It’s very playful —its interaction with light and the composition of flowers are my favourite.” In the cascading bracelets, brooches and necklaces, you will find an unlikely Cartier signature—the surprising and subliminal use of onyx. The black, against the white of the diamonds is both stark yet subtle. Karachi’s hands come up in a gesticulating explanation, “Onyx is a way to shadow the design and to give it strength. The black underlines, contrasts, and has a way of playing with light to create shadows.” Historically, too, the‘Tutti Frutti’ gems were known to chart their path across the globe to be refashioned in quintessential Cartier style.