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Anu H Gupta
The Indian subcontinent has always attracted the attention of travellers and invaders from all over the world — be it the Greeks, Mughals, Portuguese or the Britishers. Their travels and invasions, along with trade and commerce ties with India, always left a stamp on its culture, heritage and social structure.
The British influence is especially still evident in our education, lifestyle and clothing — whether it is the waistcoats or coats worn over Indian attire like kurta-pyjama or the lightweight synthetic dupattas draped by women. Westernisation of formal education in Punjab was yet another factor. As western clothing was introduced to youngsters in the form of school uniforms, students got accustomed to it, continuing to wear similar clothing as adults.
Jasvinder Kaur, a textile expert who has extensively researched the subject, has come out with a stunning book, ‘Influences of the British Raj on Attire and Textiles of Punjab’, on it. She traces these impacts not just in her writing but accompanying visuals too. The book draws from various incidents and anecdotes to show this influence, a major source being the people from different strata visiting her father’s home in Jalandhar, wearing clothing bearing a marked English influence.
She writes that this impact was initially concentrated amongst the royals and upper class, but gradually trickled down to the masses. It was, evidently, a blend of western fashion with Indian attire. Indian maharajas depicted in the 19th-century paintings wore loose garments. But as the British Raj set in, the garments of royals became more fitted. The most popular outfits for men were achkan and sherwani, both beautiful combinations of English and Indian elements. The impact and influence of European culture was also openly visible in wearing of breeches, popularly known as ‘birjiz’, socks with formal shoes, sporting short hair and maintaining a clean-shaven appearance as well as changing clothes several times a day for leisure, sports, work, etc. Turban bands and cummerbunds were part of uniforms worn by male servants.
The Raj’s influence on attire and textiles was not only limited to men but was visible in women’s apparel too, especially the scheming of colours, newer fabrics and materials. Imported mill-made cloth, thinner fabrics as compared to thick home-spun khadi became popular as well as the preferred choice for veils. Floral, patterned georgettes and imported fabrics, such as ‘dilkipyaas’, were among them. In order to capture the market in India, the Britishers targeted the production of local goods. Many factories in Britain produced cheaper cotton textiles as well as light-weight synthetic textiles that entered the Indian market over a period of time.
A very small section of Indian women (mostly from prominent Christian families or Indian royalty) started wearing western clothes. This section of women also indulged in sports like tennis and riding, better enjoyed in western attire. Blouses for the saris, especially with different sleeves like leg-o-mutton and so on, evolved and women of rich families began wearing fur coats and cloaks with saris. Use of imported make-up, hair curlers and their availability in the bigger towns added another dimension to how Punjabi women dressed. Accessorising the attire through brooches, handbags and jewellery inspired from the art deco movement also showed this influence.
In order to meet European standards in India, specialised and specific industry was set up to produce towels, tablecloths, net, etc. With this, not only was the handloom industry affected, but with the introduction of synthetic dyes from Europe, traditional natural dyeing techniques began fading too.
The book contains a lot of intriguing subsections that discuss a variety of topics on which the Raj had an impact; yet, at times you wish there was more to know and learn. The book also discusses many interesting techniques of crocheting and knitting, as well as the effect of European style and designs on the motifs or letters embroidered by Punjabi women on everyday items.
The book uncovers how Punjabis were mesmerised or influenced by British rulers or officials, who pushed them to adopt or adapt to their ways.
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