Phillips auction house to exhibit one of a kind Indian jewellery

Schenelle Dsouza

London auction house, Phillips is set to showcase a one-of-a-kind collection of jewellery by Indian retailer Santi by Krishna Choudhary. Co-curated with jewellery historian Vivienne Becker, the exhibition will feature Santi’s contemporary creations in dialogue with the historical Mughal jewels and objects that inspired them.

Taking place from 19 to 23 September, the exhibition includes a collection of 40 jewels which took almost fours years to design, in addition to two years of planning. Most of the collection is said to be designed specifically for this auction and will be exhibited in dialogue with historical Mughal jewels and objects from the Choudhary Haveli that inspired them. This is the first time that these extraordinary pieces will be have been displayed in public.

“The jewels of Santi reflect the history of his own family and the centuries-old inspiration in Indian culture. Krishna’s family collection of antique jewels, exceptional pieces and gemstones have all trained his eye and influenced his designs,” adds Benoît Repellin, Worldwide Head of Jewellery, Phillips. “While the use of table-cut diamonds, carved emeralds, paisley motifs, and other Eastern-inspired designs are a tribute to Krishna’s origins, the designer has the unique ability to incorporate these old stones and timeless motifs in contemporary design, creating wearable works of art. We are proud to collaborate with such a remarkable visionary in a rare exhibition of Santi’s stunning works of art, as we continue our mission of championing the best in jewellery design, both past and present.”

The Choudharys’ lineage can be traced back to 1727 when their ancestors worked as bankers and jewellers; Krishna Choudhary represents the 10th generation of the dynasty. A prominent member of Jaipur’s elite, the Chaodharys were granted the license to mint coins in the state’s name while being responsible for the state’s jewel collection. Going from there, the family has built a spectacular and rare collection of pieces that go back almost three centuries. The Choudhary Haveli built opposite the palace at that time remains in the family today.

Krishna Choudhary launched Santi in 2019. It was named after his father Santi Choudhary, the founder of Royal Gems & Arts in Jaipur, which is today one of the most renowned jewellery houses in India.

The Choudhary heritage has been the starting point for Krishna’s re-invigoration and re-imagining of Indian jewelled arts. Each of his contemporary creations is based on a different rare antique gem: Golconda diamonds, from the legendary early diamond mines of India, Colombian emeralds, Kashmir sapphires, and natural pearls. These gems are set into modern, graphic designs made of titanium, a juxtaposition of antiquity and modernity. The designs feature traditional Indian decorative and architectural design, patterns, and motifs, such as the chevron symbolising the flowing waters of the streams of paradise, the mango or paisley emblem, the poppy that was integral to Mughal flower cult.

“Through this exhibition, I hope to honour my heritage and share with visitors some of the magic that fuels my contemporary works. From historic gemstones of extraordinary beauty or Mughal motifs seen in art, architecture and Indian jewels – all of these serve as inspiration for my contemporary jewels, within whom I try to marry the rarest gems and the most beautiful, exquisite craftsmanship available today,”  Choudhary said in a statement.

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