Princess Diana’s jewellery was a symbol of her growing independence, says The Crown’s costume department

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“That outfit was almost like a vehicle for us to push Diana forward,” asserts Amy. “She becomes less and less Palacised, from wearing twin sets of pearls to single strings, and finding her fashion identity through costume jewellery.” Among Di’s favourite pieces? Chanel earrings minus the double-C logo – which called to mind Prince Charles and his then-mistress Camilla – and statement Butler & Wilson studs, which paved the way for others to experiment with costume jewellery in the ’80s and ’90s.

Hoops became Diana’s version of pearls: her go-to classics that felt resolutely her.

As the latter decade panned out, the simplicity of the trend cycle filtered into Diana’s wardrobe. Her minimalist hoop earrings, for example, become the new pearl clip-ons. “I feel like she got up, brushed her teeth and put her hoops in, so even in those down moments [her looks were] still embellished,” says Amy, who loves that those tiny classic tokens said so much about the person. “I think Diana was probably a bit of a magpie – there’s a real core identity that comes through her jewellery, because she did a lot of it herself. She enjoyed it.”

The duality of Diana is part of the late royal’s enduring appeal, argue the pair who found the process of imagining her wardrobe endlessly fascinating. “She’s completely enigmatic and alluring, but at the same time she’s accessible [in a sense anyone can buy into her style],” notes Amy, with Susan adding: “Once you’re a magpie, you’re always a magpie.” Season six, they promise, proffers even more gems.

This article first appeared on vogue.co.uk