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18kt rose gold, amethyst, rose quartz and morganite Gleam earrings, £19,900, Fernando Jorge (matchesfashion.com)
Still, visiting the country of origin isn’t a necessity, especially now it’s not always possible. London-based jeweller Emefa Cole has worked directly with a Kenyan gemstone cutter based in Nairobi for years, who sources rough stones from small-scale miners and brokers before cutting them himself. It means she can set a ring with luscious garnets or spinels cut by her own contact.
New York city brand Wwake has always worked with ethically sourced Australian opals, and it has now launched a range of rings using incredibly hued Australian sapphires, which are a far cry from the standard heat-treated blue most consumers are used to.
For those who want to get their hands on loose gemstones, look to gemmologist, author, and now co-curator of the secondary jewellery marketplace Omneque, Joanna Hardy. The Stone Vault collection of loose gemstones are all verified by Hardy, and available to purchase by individuals – quite a novel concept for an industry that tends to be secretive with deals happening between insiders, behind closed doors.
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