Gems & Jewellery News

Dopamine-Inducing Watches Are A Key Jewellery Trend This Year

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Thankfully, there are many more accessible options. Breitling has been quick to broaden its colour spectrum across many of its ranges, from the soft gelato shades of the Superocean Heritage ’57 Pastel Paradise and Chronomat Automatic 36 South Sea Capsule Collection, to the acid brights of the Endurance Pro.

Hublot, a perpetual innovator in terms of materials, has used this to its advantage in terms of bringing colour into timekeeping. While the brand may have made its name as a forerunner of the early-2000s black-on-black trend, in-house experimentation has led to it becoming a market leader in coloured sapphire crystal, ceramic and carbon. This year’s Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Purple Sapphire, Big Bang Integral Sky Blue Ceramic and Spirit of Big Bang Tourbillon Carbon Green are prime examples.

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Hublot Tourbillon Big Bang Automatic Purple Sapphire

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Responding to a clarion call from collectors, Cartier last year reintroduced its affordable Must de Cartier range from the 1970s with three bold Tanks in deep red, blue and green lacquer. The reception was every bit as rapturous as expected and for 2022, the colour has continued into the more luxurious Tank Louis with a deceptively 3D Op Art dial in wine red.

Over at Audemars Piguet, simple flat colour is used sparingly in the Code 11.59 collection, the brand preferring the effects gained from smoky, lacquered sunburst dials in striking jewel shades reminiscent of amethyst, garnet, tanzanite and grey jasper. The same colours exist in the current Royal Oak collection, along with ice blue and emerald, where they take on a more contemporary guise thanks to the brand’s signature tapisserie pattern.

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Omega Constellation 28mm Ladies Watch

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Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Watch

Diving into the colour party later this summer, Omega will be introducing new Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M models in 38mm and 34mm. The sun-brushed and lacquered dial colours are said to represent the watch’s titular water and land references – from Atlantic blue and lagoon green to terracotta and lavender. For those who can’t wait until the September launch, 28mm Constellation models in blush rose, patchouli blossom, celestial blue and green matcha are already available, as well as three 29mm Constellation Aventurine pieces with green, red or blue hardstone dials.

Alongside the colour-matched dials, bezels and straps, are the perennial gem-set rainbows, a trend again started by Rolex with its rarely seen Rainbow Daytonas and one quickly adopted by other brands from Hublot to Ball, Breitling and Roger Dubuis. In a more stylised fashion, Dior delivers arcs of colour with a distinctive 1970s vibe through the asymmetric arrangement of hardstones in the Gem Dior bangle watch. Even monochrome-loving Chanel embraced the rainbow with last year’s Electro takeover, which was inspired by Paris’s 1990s rave scene. For 2022, the brand has opted for colour-blocking with Red Editions in the Boy.Friend and J12 collections.

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Image may contain: Wristwatch

Chanel Boy.Friend Skeleton Red Edition Watch

And if proof was needed that colour transcends gender, then one need look no further than ultra-macho brand Richard Mille. Never afraid to inject a pop of neon into its timepieces – from the green and yellow of the RM 61-01 Yohan Blake to the orange of the RM 52-05 Pharrell Williams – in 2019 it introduced a surprise but sell-out collection based on traditional children’s sweets, the marshmallow pastels and candy brights a stark contrast to the brand’s highly technical makeup. And in a flashback to the BonBon candy store – as well as a nod to the lucky colour of RM’s golfing ambassador – the brand has just released the Tourbillon RM 39-02 Bubba Watson Pink.

As for what colour will be the next big thing, for Charlie Pragnell, group managing director of Pragnell, the safest bet is to look at trends in jewellery. “Signs of the development of preferences are seen in jewellery before watches,” he says. “Personalisation is increasingly demanded in both, and more coloured dials offer more choice. Greens, from olive to turquoise, are popular in watch dials and currently in jewellery it is teal – so we are likely to see some watch dials in this colour soon.”

While Robinson says that there is a leaning towards softer, pastel options such as shell pink, he has also noticed a demand for turquoise. Toulson, too, agrees with Pragnell that green is here to stay, adding, “Similarly, blue remains a popular choice. Beyond those two, orange is much more in evidence today – it lends itself to sports [and] diving watches as does yellow. Overall, there’s a rainbow of options for men and women at almost every price point so finding a colour you like, and which brings a smile to your face, has never been easier.”
 

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