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As the industry strives to become more sustainable, vintage is edging towards the top of the shopping agenda. “It just makes sense,” says Shrimpton Couture’s Cherie Balch, who believes that fashion’s current lust for making the old new again is not just a flash-in-the-pan affair. While adopting a greener mindset, consumers have fallen for the romance of archival looks. “There’s just something about vintage pieces that is extra special,” explains Balch, who counts Rihanna and Tracee Ellis Ross as customers. “They have a little bit of magic in them and you just can’t walk away.”
While 2021 saw the Noughties dominate vintage shopping headlines, this year sees a shift towards pieces that will transcend trends. Investment buying is top priority, with fashion fans sharpening their elbows to score rare collectibles, exquisite couture and statement jewellery that can be customised and made even more unique. The smartest shoppers are even paying it forward, and snapping up popular gems by current designers who will become the equivalent of John Galliano-era Dior in decades to come.
Here, the world’s top vintage sellers share the one-of-a-kind pieces of fashion history to keep an eye out for this year; as Cherie puts it: “the things that if you walk into a modern retail store you just cannot even hope to see on the racks.”
The major successes of the mid-’00s
Galliano’s Dior stole hearts last year, but archive hunters are now trawling for any vintage Dior, according to Balch. Why the popularity contest? “I think there’s a real love-hate relationship happening at the moment with modern Dior, so for a lot of people that means going back to the past and looking for the pieces they loved then and still love now,” explains Cherie. At Time’s Up, the Copenhagen emporium frequented by Naomi Campbell, Lady Gaga and Jane Birkin, founder Jesper Richardy is expecting a renaissance of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Balenciaga and mid ’00s Rick Owens, while Roberto Cavalli’s Noughties signatures are the hot tickets on Depop.
“Cavalli was ahead of his time in using fabrics that flatter a lot of different sizes; I think the dresses will prove to be in demand for a long time to come,” says Clare O’Donnell of Depop platform @edenvintage_, who is stocking up on the brand’s nostalgic runway prints, including the chinoiserie and amour tattoo motifs. Clever current creative director Fausto Puglisi at Cavalli is capitalising on the rising interest in old-school brand insignia, and bringing back the iconic autumn/winter 2000 tiger pattern for spring/summer 2022. “These original prints will be a good investment as the market always spikes when archive pieces are reintroduced on the runway,” continues O’Donnell, who expects Kylie Jenner, Zendaya and Bella Hadid’s love of Cavalli to help drive demand. “If you act quickly, you can snag one of the dresses before the prices start to rise!”
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